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whether such and such an order involves danger, whether from men, starvation, animals or other 
causes. 
5. All members of the party pledge themselves to have nothing whatever to do with women in any 
way that is possibly avoidable: not to interfere in any way whatever with native prejudices and 
beliefs. 
This clause shall take effect from the accomplishment of (3). 
6. Any dispute arising under this agreement shall be subjected to arbitration in the usual way and 
shall not be subject to appeal at law or otherwise. 
7. Should a third, fourth or fifth man join the party, he shall sign this agreement before he is 
definitely accepted. 
Witness our hands. 
At Kandy, Oct. 12th, 1901. 
The expedition was composed of six members. Thanks to the Alpine Club, there was no Englishman 
of mountaineering ability and experience available. We had, however, a Trinity man named 
Knowles, aged twenty-two, which is far too young for work of this kind, which requires endurance. 
He knew practically nothing of mountains, but he had common sense enough to do what Eckenstein 
told him; and as it was, he proved invaluable in Srinagar and even on the actual journey. He was a 
source rather of strength than of weakness. Then there was an Austrian judge named Pfannl, 
reputed the best rock climber in Austria, and his regular climbing companion Wessely. They had no 
experience beyond the Alps and proved utterly unable to make allowances for the difference of 
scale. Pfannl was also obsessed with the idea of getting into athletic condition and had begun to 
train directly he stepped on the boat at Trieste. Foreseeing trouble, I kept part of my diary in a 
magical cipher. I find an entry dated March 31st, 1902: 
This is called the Misadventure of Pfannl. 
Mountain Sigma. On the Finsteraarhorn after traversing Schreckhorn directly from R.R. journey, 
Pfannl had to be carried down from the Concordia but. Again, on the Géant, he collapsed from 
food, etc. The whole moral of this is: "If Pfannl collapses, it will be complete. He is sure to 
overtrain." 
The Austrians were totally unable to understand the workings of the native mind, as appeared very 
soon. It was a great mistake to bring them. The sixth member of the party was a Swiss ex-Army 
doctor named Guillarmod, who looked and behaved like Tartarin de Tarascon. He knew as little of 
mountains as he did of medicine, and proved a great source of 
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weakness, though his delightful geniality helped both the psychology of the party and our relations 
with the natives. He was our comic relief and did much to make things more tolerable for all of us. 
For all that, I think we should have done better to take none of the foreigners1. Our numbers made 
us unwieldy; and the question of international jealousy contributed indirectly to our failure, as will 
be explained later. 
We left Pindi for Tret on the twenty-ninth of March. We had had to repack our baggage, which 
weighted over three tons, for convenience of transport by ekkas. These are contraptions which 
suggest a hansom cab with the back knocked out and the driver on the floor, as it might have been 
conceived by the man who invented the coracle. Even one European finds it impossible to get a 
comfortable seat or stretch his legs, and a second constitutes outrageous overcrowding. A party of 
eight to ten natives, on the other hand, finds itself at ease.