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whatever which does not deal with matters of prime importance. The early stages of learning a 
language are, therefore, agonizing. 
I had been advised with regard to the fourth language required for the examination not to take 
Italian, because so many people spoke it so perfectly, or Spanish, because it was considered the 
easiest way into the service, but Russian, on account of its extreme difficulty, and because the 
knowledge of it made one eligible for appointment to the most interesting and brilliant court in 
Europe. This led to my going to St. Petersburg, a journey which worked wonders in enlarging my 
outlook on the world. 
{115} 
The passion for travel was already very strong in me. Home was my idea of hell; and London itself 
had a sordid aspect which never appealed to me. The idea of wickedness in London is connected 
with that of shame, and besides this there are certainly excellent reasons for a poet to feel unhappy 
there. To begin with, I can't stand the climate. I have known rare days in May and June when youth 
pays a fleeting visit to town, when the sunlight excites and the breeze braces one. It is this idea of 
the Young Dionysus with which I am in love. I always feel myself as about eighteen or twenty; I 
always look at the world through those eyes. It is my constant sorrow that things do not always 
accommodate themselves to that point of view; and it is my eternal mission to redeem the universe 
to that state of intoxicated innocence and spiritual sensuality. 
I bring ye wine from above. 
...From the vats of the storied sun. 
For every one of ye love, 
...And life for every one. 
The air of London is damp and depressing. It suggests the consciousness of sin. Whether one has a 
suite in the Savoy or in an attic in Hoxton, the same spiritual atmosphere weighs upon the soul. 
To a poet, moreover, the artistic side of London is the abomination of desolation. The plays are 
commercialized either for sentimentality or pornography. There is something uncomfortable in 
going to see a play by Shakespeare or Ibsen. Actors and spectators alike seem to be engaged in a 
dreary ritual. Grand opera is even worse. Covent Garden patronizes Wagner; he is an excuse for the 
display of diamonds. I shall never forget my first experience of Continental opera: Lohengrin at 
Stockholm. The atmosphere was absolutely natural; people had gone there because they really liked 
the music. I was transported into my own ideal world of love and melody. The caresses of my 
companion were the overflowing of ecstatic passion. Sin had been abolished, I was back in Eden. 
In London one cannot even go to the National Gallery or the British Museum with a pure heart as 
one goes to the Louvre or the Prado. One cannot get away from the sense that one is performing an 
act of piety. Concerts are even more dreadful than the opera. The surroundings are invariably 
bleak; one feels that the artist is doing it on purpose. Singing and playing demand background. 
Singing is the natural expression of human emotion, the joy of youth and life as connected with the 
landscapes of Corot and Gauguin, or with the interiors of Teniers. Elaborate instrumental music asks 
for appropriate architecture, not necessarily that of the cathedral. Music should have its own 
temples. London concert halls are blasphemous and obscene. 
{116} 
Before the cinema --- the panorama. The camera obscura and the magic lantern were the popular 
scientific wonders of the period. Some nameless pompier had sluiced I do not know how many acres 
of canvas with a representation of Niagara. They built a pavilion to house it. One was supposed to 
be standing on Goat Island --- in fact, one was rather the goat --- and one walked round a vast 
gallery and inspected each segment of the waterfall in turn. In due course everyone had see it and 
the question was what to do with the building. They turned it into a palais de glace with real ice. I, 
always keen on skating, bought a ticket for the season. The convention was for the ordinary skater 
to swing round and round the outside, while the experts performed their evolutions in the centre.